How Ring Trends Evolved: From Functional to Fancy to Cultural Milestones

By Disha Shah, Founder & Designer, DiAi Designs

From legacy diamond rings to celebrity-inspired designs, the evolution of ring trends symbolises cultural shifts, technology advancements, and customer trends. Rings transitioned from being symbols of extravaganza, individuality, and sustainability.

Disha Shah, Founder & Designer, DiAi Designs

Diamonds have been a symbol of stature due to their price depending on the carat/size, colour, cut, and clarity. The larger and 'cleaner' the diamond, the more expensive it is. Many also go for colored diamonds that symbolise the 'rarity' of the stones. Legacy diamond rings have been an inspiration for decades. The trend begins once celebrities are spotted wearing specific iconic designs, and they instantly become bestsellers in custom design. Ring trends have evolved dramatically over the decades, shaped by technology, cultural shifts, and changing customer preferences. Rings began primarily as functional objects that exuded heritage, culture, and style, but now have become personal statements mirroring lofty aspirations. 

Minimalistic beginnings: Signet and seal rings

Image: Metropolitan Museum of Art

Rings have not always been about aesthetics. In ancient and medieval times, they often served practical purposes. The story begins with signet rings engraved with unique insignias and symbols that were valuable instruments for sealing documents or marking ownership. Seal rings were also popular and usually worn by noblemen and clergy. Designs were intricate, featuring family crests, symbols, or motifs.  

Royalty gets in on the trend

The Renaissance changed ring designs and their enduring symbolism. The royalty influenced this trend, who used jewellery to display their opulence. The Tudor period saw the popularity of gemstone-encrusted rings worn by the monarchs. Those rings were meant to impress and intimidate. The Victorian era continued with sentimental jewellery, rings featuring hearts, flowers, and intricate engravings. Beginning with industrialisation, while some members of the general public could access rings, it remained the rich people's domain.   

20th century: Celeb influence begins

Ring trends saw massive shifts when the new century arrived, with a robust middle class, cultural shifts, and technology democratizing access to rings. The 'Art Deco Rings' in the 1920s and 1930s saw geometric patterns, bold colours, and symmetrical designs emerge. Rings became sleek and modern, reflecting optimism and innovation in sync with the bold technological strides.

Gem-cutting techniques became sophisticated, increasing the popularity of platinum and diamond rings. The mid-20th century saw the rise of celebrity culture, with Hollywood stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe. Oversized, glamorous rings became popular, reflecting the aspirations, glitz, and glamour of the times. The post-war economic boom also made the ring much more accessible to an average buyer, blurring the lines between high-end and low-fashion. 

The celebrity-driven era

The 21st century saw celebrity influence reaching new heights, thanks partly to social media and constant around-the-clock news cycles. The Toi et Moi trend was popular after Emily Ratajkowski's ring, which later divorced and broke apart to form 'divorce rings.' Aditi Rao Hydari also announced her engagement with this style. Toi et Moi translates to 'you and me,' symbolising two people coming together for eternity.

Princess Diana's engagement ring, a 12-carat oval Ceylon sapphire surrounded by 14 round diamonds set in white gold, popularised contrasting blue gemstones with diamonds in multiple jewellery categories over the years. Fancy-shaped diamonds have become increasingly popular as engagement rings over the years. Selena Gomez announced her engagement with a marquise diamond set on a pavé band of diamonds. In contrast, Zendaya's Jessica McCormack Rink's 5.02-carat East-West cushion diamond ring is a recent spotting of the East-West trend.

Modern innovations and the future

Presently, ring designs have been revolutionised by technology, which has opened up new possibilities for customisation and experimentation. Lab-grown diamonds and using sustainable materials have become the cornerstones of the future of ring design. It is increasingly fashionable to flaunt a sustainable diamond representing a celebrity's love for the environment and everything they do to improve the world. Even though natural diamonds have been marketed as 'rare' over the years, and lab-grown diamonds may not hold the same stature, we are now seeing an increasing interest in celebrities flaunting these diamonds rather than shying away from them. Emma Watson, widely known for her commitment to sustainability, opted for a dainty lab-grown diamond design. AR and VR are also reshaping the process of shopping for rings.  

Rings have evolved from their functional origins, and cultural shifts, technology advancements, and celebrity influence have shaped ring designs. Rings of today continue to reflect values and traditions, from sustainability to self-expression. They have stood the test of time and will continue to be a form of adornment, capturing the spirit of the times. From rings that served as instruments to expressions of undying love and luxury, it has been a long journey, and it's a journey that will just get modified with the times but always stay relevant.