From Ghee Candles to Butter Toffee, Avartana at ITC Maurya, Gives South Indian Cuisine a Contemporary Twist

Avartana, the internationally loved restaurant known for its modern take on Southern Indian food, arrived at ITC Maurya, New Delhi last year. It now stands alongside the hotel’s legendary dining spots like Bukhara and Dum Pukht. Just like them, Avartana serves bold flavours and interesting textures that truly showcase the richness of South Indian cuisine.

My first visit to Avartana (pronounced Avartan) left my palate happy, satiated and well... of course, craving more. Helmed by chef Manish Kakkar, the restaurant brings South Indian flavours to a global audience, with a menu that celebrates the diverse tastes of peninsular India.

The interiors are a visual nod to the South as well. At the entrance, small spice displays evoke the region's warmth, and a brass urli filled with water and floating flowers creates a serene welcome. The 54-seater space, which includes a 10-seater Private Dining Room has accents like banana leaf-inspired brass accents, soft gold and pastel colours, light wooden tones, and shiny silver fabrics. Copper and amber art pieces, coconut-shaped lamps, and banana flower-style lights add charm, while the stoneware, stylish steel cutlery, and modern glassware complete the picture.

Avartana, which derives its name from the Sanskrit word ‘Avartan’, meaning rhythm or repetition, reimagines Southern cuisine with a fine balance of art and science. The restaurant offers a range of degustation menus, from five to thirteen courses, each crafted to leave you intrigued, never overwhelmed. Small portions keep the experience light and progressive, allowing you to savour every moment. The Anika menu is designed around theatrical storytelling. Jiaa explores experimental fusion in an eleven-course format. Bela, with its playful nine-course experience, charms with visual appeal. Maya presents surreal medleys that reflect the heart of South India. And for seafood lovers, Tara, a thirteen-course seafood-only menu, is an unforgettable indulgence.

For my visit, I was treated to a specially curated 9-course chef’s tasting menu, Kimaya, paired with six exquisite wines sourced from across the globe by Vishal Kadakia, Founder, Wine Park. From prosecco to heavy-bodied red wines and white wines. The indulgent menu stirred up by Chef Manish was reminiscent of the flavours and ingredients of the South, but with a modern edge, while artistically curated plating enlivened each dish. Each dish showed how a fine dining lens can make south indian cuisine extremely refined.

The meal began with something truly unique, a clarified tomato rasam, served in a French press. This clear soup had all the warm, tangy, and comforting notes of rasam, but tasted like a delicate French consommé. It stayed on the palate in the most elegant way and was paired with a Garganega Chardonnay, which brought out its freshness beautifully. Adding a healthy edge was the Tomato and Millet Rice Crisp — almost too pretty to eat. The flavours instantly reminded me of bhelpuri, but the fun twist lay in the tomato sphere that popped like a delicate bubble in the mouth. Paired with a glass of Scaia white wine (with notes reminiscent of champagne), the dish beautifully set the tone for the extravagant menu that was to follow. 

Next up was nothing short of a masterpiece , the Cauliflower Crunch. Plated delicately on a pristine white plate, it was a celebration of the ingredient in three ways. Accompanied by a smooth coconut chutney, fresh mint, and the burst of pomegranate, the dish was simply divine. The pairing? A glass of ‘Old Vines’ Riesling — crisp, aromatic, and a match made in culinary heaven.  While stir-fried chicken is a classic, Avartana’s version had a delightful twist. Served with a buttermilk mousse to mellow the spic,e and a curry leaf tempura that added crunch and theatrics, it was a well-thought-out surprise. Following this came the Shrimp and Coriander Dumpling, and instead of a chutney was a delicious podi masala — a true ode to Southern flavours. Paired with a Saint Clair Pinot Noir, it was a perfectly balanced moment of indulgence. 

Then came two dishes that left us truly torn, choosing a showstopper became nearly impossible. First, was the Steamed Seabass with fermented gongura butter rice. It wasdelicate, flavourful, and the fish melted in the mouth. But what followed was the off-the-menu indulgence: the iconic Uthukuli Butter Chicken with coin-sized Malabar parotta and a maron beetroot-hued butter toffee. Inspired by the Tamil Nadu town of Uthukuli, known for its rich dairy, the butter used in the curry carried a distinct flavour, layered with warm spices and decadence. The toffee, artistic in presentation, featured a beetroot outer shell enclosing a soft butter centre that oozed when cut into enhacing the flavours of the dish.

Just as I began to feel full, I realised the journey wasn’t over. A beautifully presented palate cleanser arrived, the Lemon Leaf Sorbet. Served on a transparent square dish, it resembled a sunken ice cube, refreshing and light. Then came a surprise twist on a classic: a lamb drumstick served with a dosa. Theatrics took centre stage with the Raw Mango Pudding , Ghee candle. The candle made entirely of ghee, was lit and then melted into the dish, making it edible. Presented in an earthy dish that mimicked stone, the crispy pappad on the side elevated the experience when crushed over the pudding.

From the kitchen came yet another surprise: the Coco Butter Pebbles. Dark in colour, looking solid and hard, but once popped in the mouth, they burst with perfectly balanced flavours, neither overly sweet nor savoury.  To close the meal on a sweet note, the Fennel Panna Cotta arrived, plated like a nest with what appeared to be an egg. The outer shell, crafted from caramel and reminiscent of cotton candy, cracked open to reveal a white chocolate layer hiding an oozy yolk of ginger caramel crème. A harmonious blend of textures and flavours. Finally, the meal concluded with a paan cold, crunchy, refreshing, and bursting with flavour, just like the kind you’d enjoy at your favourite roadside stall.

Each course was a lesson in flavours, finesse, and modern cuisine. If you're looking to try something different with bold Southern Indian flavours, Avartana at ITC Maurya, New Delhi, offers an unforgettable and immersive dining experience. If you are craving a unique taste of Southern India, Avartana at ITC Maurya, New Delhi, promises a bold, immersive dining experience.

Avartana At the Rooftop, ITC Maurya new Delhi

7 to 11 pm, Dinner

For table reservations please call 011 2611 2233