3 Indian Designers Who Took Over Global Runways This Season

India has been an integral part of the world’s fashion story for years. Its textiles, craft and embroidery traditions have travelled far beyond its borders, shaping moodboards and inspiring designers around the world. Yet, while Indian craftsmanship has long been admired globally, the creative voices behind it have rarely received the same attention.

That is beginning to change, with Indian designers taking their mastery to some of the world’s most recognised fashion capitals. This season, homegrown talent made sure India is not just part of the fashion conversation, but has a voice of its own. Here are 3 Indian designers who showcased their collections on international runways.

Sabyasachi | New York Fashion Week

Eighteen years after his last show at New York Fashion Week, Sabyasachi returned with Bengal Byzantine Broadway, a collection inspired by the idea of cultures coming together. It drew from the history of Byzantium, the energy of New York and the artistry of Calcutta, bringing these different worlds together through an Indian lens.

The collection was built around familiar wardrobe pieces—jeans, shirts, waistcoats and trench coats—worn as matching sets or mixed and matched. The colour palette moved from autumnal shades of beige, rust, tan, black and white to plenty of denim. These solid looks were broken up with touches of print and detail, from printed collars and embroidered cropped jackets to bold jewellery.

There was a constant play between simple and statement dressing. Japanese denim, British tweed, cashmere, mohair and velvet appeared across fluid trousers, draped skirts, short jackets and cummerbunds. Accessories added plenty of personality, with cowboy and Panama hats, silk scarves, oversized sunglasses, sculptural handbags and metal-tipped shoes, while the occasional touch of sparkle brought glamour to the otherwise relaxed looks.

For the more elaborate pieces, Sabyasachi turned to detailed embroidery, beadwork, jewelled tiger motifs and High Jewellery from The Metropolitan Museum of Art | Sabyasachi. Overall, the collection brought together several different styles from Western workwear and prairie dressing to Edwardian tailoring, 1970s bohemia and old-world evening glamour.

Lovebirds Spring/Summer'27 | London Fashion Week

Lovebirds made its London Fashion Week debut with its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, India, IYKYK, bringing a familiar yet often overlooked side of India to the global runway. Rather than leaning into obvious references, designers Amrita Khanna and Gursi Singh looked at the details of everyday Indian life and nostalgia, translating them into clothes that felt modern and easy to wear.

On the runway, structure was beautifully balanced with fluidity. Crisp white shirts and sharper tailoring appeared alongside sheer fabrics, asymmetric hemlines, drop-waist silhouettes and softly draped separates. Embellished bottoms brought a touch of glamour, while double belts, layered styling and unexpected proportions gave the collection a more contemporary edge. There was an ease to the clothes, but also plenty of detail to stop them from feeling too minimal.

While the colour palette remained largely restrained, the ideas behind the collection were anything but. Lovebirds looked to everyday Indian cultural references, from old studio photography backdrops and Adarsh Balak (Ideal Boy) posters to hand-painted Bollywood imagery. Instead of recreating these references literally, the designers used them as a starting point, turning familiar memories into prints, textures and details that felt relevant today.

Indian textiles and techniques were equally important. Chintz was reworked through block printing and hand-painted details, while handwoven tussar, dupion and brocade were developed with weavers in Banaras and Kutch. These traditionally structured fabrics were then frayed, softened and reworked, giving them a more relaxed feel and allowing them to sit naturally alongside the collection's fluid silhouettes.

Perhaps the most playful reference came through the footwear. The classic blue Bata chappal—instantly recognisable to generations of Indians—was reimagined as a sculpted kitten heel. It was a collection that could speak to an international audience without losing where it came from.

Dhruv Kapoor | Milan Fashion Week

Every year since 2022, Dhruv Kapoor has been making his mark on the Milan runway. For Spring/Summer 2027, he returned with Presence, a collection that stayed true to his signature style—bold, eclectic and full of drama.

Graphic prints and bright colours were mixed with neutral shades, oversized shapes and interesting fabrics, including wrinkled leather. While many of the pieces were easy to wear and style on their own, the runway looks were anything but simple. Broad-shouldered blazers, crystal-covered Madras check lungis, draped saris, layered shorts and lungi skirts appeared alongside lace and sheer fabrics.

Behind the collection was the idea of slowing down and being present in the moment. Presence looked at how time changes the body, fabric, colour and memories. This came through in clothes that looked faded, worn-in and slightly imperfect.

The colour palette moved from white, black and grey to mint green and pink, with brighter shades of green and blue adding a pop of colour. Sun-faded tones were mixed with stronger shades, bringing old and new together on the runway. Overall, the collection mixed sharp tailoring with relaxed shapes and worn-in textures. It felt polished yet playful, with plenty of the unexpected details Dhruv Kapoor has become known for.

The runway also introduced a surprise collaboration between PUMA x RCB x Dhruv Kapoor, a limited-edition capsule that brought together fashion, streetwear and cricket.