From Banarasi to Bandhej: Indian Weaves Find a Global Voice
- Varnika Thukral
- 18 hours ago
- 5 min read
Indian textiles have a deep-rooted history. But their reinvention and popularity today can be seen in a new form. You've seen Indian textiles on the Oscar red carpet and at the afterparty, on the runways and in trend reports' surface dialogues. There has been a boom on global platforms from Vaishali Shadangule's Paris Haute Couture Showcase overseas to her flagship store on Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris, to Pero's craft-led clothing and Anita Dongre's spotlight on artisans, each textile is being developed with a contemporary lens. Globally, the country's heritage textiles have gained appreciation from collectors and fashion labels alike.
Recently, the consumer base has widened, and textiles that were absent in major reports have finally earned a seat. Though we argue it should not have taken that long, heritage weaves — like Bandhej and Banarasi — are driving people to shift their wardrobes and seek quality and motifs that go beyond what is considered luxury in fashion globally.
Rise of Heritage Weaves Globally
With a natural inclination to sustainability and clothes that last, fashion is moving towards a phase that is more about quality than cheap replications. Fast fashion companies such as Shein have faced scrutiny for unfair production practices, leading younger consumers to shift from major brands to local options.
"The drive towards sustainability, passing on culture to generations and growing appreciation for preserved heritage and craft over the years, along with the value of handmade craftsmanship, make India the new interest for all designers," says Nitya Bajaj, Designer and Founder, Label Nitya Bajaj. She also emphasises how global fashion labels have always been fond of Indian craftsmanship. Be it Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, or Dries Van Noten, heritage weaves have been incorporated into collections and celebrated historically in global fashion.
When asked about the early signs of this upward graph, Khushi Shah, Creative Director at Shanti Banaras, commented, saying, "I believe the initial indicators were in the worldwide movement towards slow fashion. People became more concerned with how items are produced and who produces them. Simultaneously, international museums and designers started to take a more serious interest in South Asian textiles." With the recurring themes of saree drapes, Indian colour palettes, and the much-discussed Kohlapuries, Indian craft became the talk of the town.
Post Dior's show in India with Chanakya School of Craft and the reinterpretation of sarees, the fascination with heritage weaves and motifs grew exponentially. Discussions began to increase, emphasising the reclaiming of designs and cultural appropriation at every snack bar, with heritage weaves securing their own place at the table.
International Consumers
Buyers around the world are pivoting to more eco-conscious clothing choices, and Indian textiles and weaves stand at the helm of it. The global audience for these weaves is diverse. Some are drawn to them for their cultural value and luxury appeal, while others see them as pieces of fashion history in the making. It’s hard to define this audience as just one type of consumer. “Along with luxury fashion houses that value craftsmanship, there are also collectors and conscious buyers who truly appreciate heritage,” says Nitya.
The global audience for these weaves is diverse. Some are drawn to them for their cultural value and luxury appeal, while others see them as pieces of fashion history in the making. It’s hard to define this audience as just one type of consumer. Adding to this, Aditi Chand, CEO & Co-Founder of Tilfi Banaras, shares, “What’s exciting is the growing number of global buyers who don’t have a direct cultural connection to India but are still deeply attracted to its craftsmanship. These include architects, artists, and professionals who value slow processes, quality materials, and thoughtful design. What connects them is their love for pieces that go beyond trends and have meaning.”
With more young people entering the workforce and building collections of wearable art, Indian textiles are becoming a natural choice. Khushi explains, “It’s a very interesting mix. Younger audiences are discovering these textiles through fashion. Even if they’re not from the culture, they appreciate the craftsmanship and the fact that each piece is handmade and unique. In a world of mass production, that kind of authenticity really stands out.”
Indian Motifs And The Art of Symbolism
No conversation about Indian weaves is complete without mentioning motifs, especially when symbolism has become a subtle way of expressing identity and meaning. Indian motifs provide a visual language that sparks curiosity and encourages deeper exploration of cultural, mythological, and historical contexts. As Aditi Chand explains, “Indian motifs have always carried layers of meaning—whether it’s the continuous jaal, the natural Mughal florals, or the spiritual symbolism of the paisley. Today, people are beginning to see Indian textiles not just as decorative or ‘exotic’, but as thoughtful design systems with cultural and philosophical depth.”
Nitya Bajaj further breaks this down through Ajrakh craft. “In Ajrakh, every motif has a meaning. The mango represents fertility, the peacock stands for royalty, the eight-pointed star reflects cosmic unity, and the chaumukh motif shows balance in all four directions,” she says. Even the colours tell a story—natural dyes like indigo, madder red, and black from iron ore carry their own symbolism. Indigo represents vastness, madder red stands for fertility, and black signifies strength. Thus, motifs provide a rich visual language and add meaning and depth beyond mere colour blocking.
Cultural Homogenisation and Commercialisation of Craft
The global rise of any indigenous craft is mostly met with counterfeit products and mass-produced versions. In many cases, the craft is reduced to just a pattern or trend—something that fast fashion can easily replicate. As traditional weaves become rarer, the concern is not just about preserving the craft, but also about protecting the artisans behind it. These artisans, often the backbone of the craft, depend entirely on creating these textiles for their livelihood.
Aditi Chand explains, “One of the biggest threats to heritage weaves today is the rise of machine-made Banarasi lookalikes. These copies weaken the value of the craft. They not only affect artisans financially but also take away what makes these weaves special—the human touch, the small imperfections, and the time-consuming techniques like Kadhwa, Rangkat, or Jamdani, which can take months to create.”
Khushi Shah adds, “Whenever something becomes popular, imitation follows. But with Banarasi, the real beauty lies in the weaving process and the artisans behind it. As global demand increases, it becomes even more important to protect the authenticity of the craft.”
"The larger narrative often overlooks the makers themselves. These works are sustained by artisan communities whose knowledge has been refined over decades. When Indian art enters the luxury conversation, it does more than aestheticise heritage; it creates economic agency, restores value to craftsmanship, and positions India as a serious cultural voice rather than just a production destination," concludes Aarushi Garg, Founder, Shiromani.
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