Over three decades ago, two creative individuals stumbled upon one another only to create what we call a legacy now – Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. For over 30 years, they have held the reigns in Indian fashion, and they solidified their position with the recent opening show Rani Aur Raj Kumar ASAL & MARD By Abu Sandeep at India Couture Week. The brand started in 1990 with Abu making gorgeous sketches that soon enough translated into the signature AJSK embroideries we see today. The duo had a clear vision of becoming well-known for what they were and reviving Indian craft to its old glory. A key craft is chikankari made on chiffons and pure fabrics. As years went by the duo started dressing some of the top Bollywood celebrities including the Bachchan family and Dimple Kapadia, and mirror work, pastel hues, signature zardozi work and of course, extravagance and maximalism.
After establishing themselves in the industry, the duo introduced three sub-brands: ASAL, Mard, and Gulaboo by Abu Sandeep, which captivated the audience. Following their participation in the Blenders Pride Fashion Tour 2019-20, this year, the duo presented ASAL and Mard by Abu Sandeep at their debut show during the Hyundai FDCI India Couture Week 2024, in partnership with Reliance Brands Limited. Titled Rani and Raja Kumar, their showcase in the capital city treated the Delhi audience to a taste of glamour and grandeur, presented in true royal style.
Abu Sandeep are known for never doing things the ordinary way and this show was no different. They raised the curtains and set the bar extremely high for the extravagant week that lies ahead. Being a theatrical performance, the showcase put Indian fashion back on the global map breaking away from the mundane 20-minute showcase. Rani Aur Raj Kumar by ASAL & MARD By Abu Sandeep! collection unfolds a theatrical spectacle that celebrates Indian culture with exquisite design and a touch of modern flair. A 45-minute-long showcase – that was straight out of a Sanjay Leela Bhansali film – it was filled with glamour, India's culture where performing art like Kathak complimented Indian craft and original beats by Faridkot.
The presentation promised glamour, entertainment, opulence, original beats which got the crowd grooving and an exceptional array of signature AJSK aesthetics across Indian couture by ASAL and Mard all while staying in sync with India’s rich cultural heritage. It was a performance that married India’s varied performing and visual arts seamlessly.
Promising to be unique in every way, stand-up comedian Sumukhi Suresh introduced the show her quintessential humour that threw light on the triumph of love. This slowly transitioned into an opulent kathak show with dimly lit lanterns and music that was peppy with Indian beats, (Disco Mujra as the music genre). As the lights became brighter the show commenced and the couturiers presented their art amidst a massive Haveli-inspired backdrop infused with the madness of modern flair. With this showcase, the duo redefined the meaning of Indian Fashion shows.
“We aim to celebrate the spirit of love between modern couples, a bride who carries her cultural heritage with ease and pride, and a regal groom who exudes contemporary sophistication in a modern spirit, thus harmonising the old with the new to create the ideal wardrobe for their big day,” said the designers, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla.
Showcasing Wamiqa Gabbi as the ASAL Bride and Taha Shah Badussha, aka our heartthrob Tajdaar from Heeramadi, as the MARD groom, the show was star-studded. The show divided into different segments and opened with a range of lehengas, anarkalis, shararas and sarees in pastel tones with a few red bridal lehengas, angrakhas and sherwanis for men teamed with opulent jewels, and a whole lot more. Wamiqa opened the show in an ethereal ivory Trail Lehenga from the Botanical Bloom line. The lehenga featured Resham embroidery with ivory silk threads highlighted with pearls, crystals, and an iconic pearl-beaded veil.
Overall, the collection brought together a new perspective with the beauty of all things old – such as textiles, embroideries, clothes, and the haveli as the backdrop. It delved deep into our rich archives to curate a series of ranges that paid homage to the impeccable craftsmanship and time-honoured heritage of original designs by Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. ASAL, the bridal womenswear label, was inspired by Abu Sandeep’s continued desire to blend heritage with modern elegance. The intention was to honour today’s bride by harmonizing the old with the new. For The Regal Groom of Mard, the inspiration finds its roots in how men no longer shy away from dressing their best. They love receiving adoration and attention just as much as the bride does. Taha Shah Badussha stole the show with his first appearance in an olive silk tissue long kurta adorned with crystal-encrusted flying birds, paired with relaxed yet regal brocade flared pants.
The collection featured a range of colours, from pastels to vibrant hues, with mirror work, chikankari, and contemporary Indian elements. Pastel ivory sarees were paired with multicoloured chikankari jackets adorned with mirror work, as well as shaded sarees and sequin sarees. There were also contemporary blouse designs, kurtas with dhotis for women, and reinvented classics such as front-open jackets with embroidery. For men, there were sherwanis with dramatic borders and Mughal-inspired angrakhas. The standout feature of the collection was the intricate embroidery with resham threads in a variety of colours, along with the addition of mirrors for added glamour and radiance.
At the end of the show, Wamiqa appeared as a regal bride in a red Lehenga from the Bridal Gota collection. The Lehenga was handcrafted with Gota, Zardozi, and encrusted with crystals. Taha Shah Badussha looked opulent in a brocade pant with a dramatic textile drape adorned in Zardozi embroidery. His ensemble was completed with a matching Zardozi belt.
After a few years of mundane shows, the master of couture broke the mould with a show that was creative and THIS IS what Indian fashion needs. What a phenomenal start to the week ahead. It was a runway show that set the stage for an unforgettable India Couture Week season.
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