I Stayed at Bori Safari Lodge: A Wildlife Escape in India With No TVs, Patchy Wi-Fi and Incredible Safaris

*Bori Safari Lodge has been featured in The Style List's 50 Best Boutique Hotels 2026 list

*All images are self-taken and subject to copyright

No phone service, electricity that came and went, a bhopu (a handheld horn or megaphone) used to call the lodge staff, patchy internet connectivity, a troop of monkeys passing by, the sound of bamboo swaying in the wind, birds chirping happily, and wildlife in its truest form, with snakes making occasional appearances after a heavy downpour. Freshness filled the air, and a sense of peace that allowed me to hear and engage with nature. That was my very first experience at a wildlife safari lodge — Bori Safari Lodge in Madhya Pradesh.

(L) Central Courtyard, Landscape around the Lodge, (R) pathways to rooms

Situated in Dhapada village near Shahpur, close to the Bori Wildlife Sanctuary and around three hours from Bhopal Airport, Bori Safari Lodge is part of Jehan Numa Wilderness and the brainchild of Aly Rashid. Established in 2019 in Bori, the southern region of the Satpura Tiger Reserve, the boutique property spans 7.5 acres and is shaded by a canopy of trees, wild grasslands and a man-made pond. Housing eight luxury rooms and four superior luxury rooms, the lodge has been thoughtfully designed to leave a gentle footprint on the landscape while immersing guests in the surrounding wilderness.

What makes this season particularly special is that, unlike most wildlife lodges in India, the property remains operational during the monsoon months as the Bori Buffer Zone continues to welcome tourists. Activities have been adapted to suit the changing weather conditions, allowing guests to experience the forest in an entirely different mood.

Central to the experience is the lodge's exceptional naturalist team, whose deep understanding of the forest, animal behaviour, tracks, calls and ecosystems brings the wilderness vividly to life. What stood out to me was how the naturalists hosted guests from beginning to end, extending their role far beyond safaris. They joined us for drinks, hosted culinary and cocktail-making experiences, and treated everyone like part of the family. That level of approachability remains one of the lodge's strongest USPs. Adding to this was a simple but memorable gesture — every time a vehicle entered the property, members of the team would stand and wave hello, instantly bringing smiles to everyone's faces.

The Safari Experience

Despite having visited multiple national parks across North India, this was my first time exploring a tiger reserve in Central India, and spotting a tiger remained a hopeful dream. After spending three days here, I realised that this part of the country remains remarkably untouched. It is far less commercialised than many of India's better-known wildlife destinations, yet offers an experience unlike any other.

The name Satpura translates to "Seven Hills" in Sanskrit and refers to the mountain range that runs through the park. The landscape is exceptionally biodiverse, comprising rugged sandstone hills, narrow gorges, flowing streams, valleys and dense forests. Located near the lesser-explored Bori Wildlife Sanctuary, the lodge offers uncrowded and intimate safari experiences. The real thrill, however, comes from the safari experience itself. Guests can embark on 4x4 game drives through Bori Wildlife Sanctuary and Satpura National Park, searching for the super six of Satpura — Tiger, Leopard, Sloth Bear, Wild Dog, Gaur and the park's mascot, the Indian Giant Squirrel.

While I arrived hoping to spot the famous tiger Shiva in the Malupura Core Zone of Bori, tiger sightings here are relatively rare due to the significantly lower number of tourists and safari vehicles compared to India's more famous reserves. Yet I didn't leave disappointed. Bori Safari Lodge's naturalists, Tarkik Verma and Khadir Khan, ensured that every moment was engaging. Their deep knowledge of the forest, animal behaviour, calls, birds, insects and ecosystems made every conversation fascinating.

The evening safaris, though shorter, are a wonderful way to observe the region's rich birdlife and conclude with a memorable high-tea experience. The morning safaris, running from 5:30 am to 11:30 am, offer a larger window to explore the forest and increase your chances of spotting larger mammals.

From crocodiles, nilgai, monitor lizards and wild boars to velvet ants — bright red insects named after their velvet-like appearance — I returned with a diverse range of wildlife encounters. Birdwatching proved equally rewarding, with sightings ranging from white-eyes to the elusive White-eyed Buzzard and the charming Spotted Owlet. Beyond the sightings, I also left with a deeper understanding of the forest. I learnt how deer rub their antlers against tree bark to shed the soft velvet coating as their antlers mature. Similarly, Khadir pointed out fresh sloth bear claw marks on a tree trunk, while we closely followed tiger pugmarks to understand where the elusive big cat had recently rested.

Malupura Satpura Tiger Reserve Landscape, Buffer Zone Landscape, Breakfast and tea experiences in the forest and the map

During a guided nature walk, we observed evidence of a wild dog hunt, including a drag trail leading to its prey, while also learning about the nesting habits of several bird species. The forest experiences at Satpura were both thrilling and deeply educational. These experiences made the forest feel alive in ways that extended well beyond tiger sightings.

sundowner tea experience and local pakoras

In addition to safaris, guided nature trails, birdwatching sessions, cycling excursions, tribal dance performances and sundowners featuring freshly made pakoras prepared by women from nearby villages kept us thoroughly entertained throughout the stay.

Design and Accommodation

Designed by Studio Será, Bori Safari Lodge is a luxury eco-conscious property featuring stilted, lightweight villas that blend seamlessly into the surrounding landscape. Meandering elevated pathways lined with native flora and illuminated by lanterns lead guests to their rooms, creating a sense of anticipation with every walk.

The villas are arranged in pairs, with two accommodations sharing a common outdoor space overlooking the forest. Furnished with wildlife-viewing chairs and subtle lighting, these spaces encourage guests to slow down and absorb their surroundings. Solar-powered water heaters further reinforce the property's sustainable ethos.

(L) Luxury Villa Interiors (R) Common Outdoor Space

Stepping inside each villa, modern minimalist architecture is thoughtfully fused with rustic charm. Local materials such as stone and hand-moulded clay tiles are used throughout, while large windows frame views of the wild green landscape beyond. Rustic rugs double as wall art, complementing simple wooden furniture and exposed ash-grey cement walls. Wood-panelled ceilings add warmth, while glass sections just below the roofline allow natural light to flood the interiors. Combined with the large balcony doors, these architectural details create bright, airy spaces that remain deeply connected to the outdoors.

At the centre of the lodge sits the reception, library and dining area, all arranged around a courtyard anchored by an old banyan tree. It quickly became one of my favourite spots for early-morning birdwatching. Paintings of birds and animals found within the park adorn the walls, while rattan lighting fixtures add warmth and character to the interiors. Minimalist furniture and open layouts allow the surrounding landscape to remain the focal point. A short walk away lies the outdoor deck and swimming pool, while a patio overlooking the pond offers yet another peaceful spot for birdwatching, sundowners or private dining experiences.

The Bar, Swimming Pool, Reception Interiors and Bicycle Stands

Food and Beverage

With one multi-cuisine restaurant and a bar, the food and beverage programme remains one of the lodge's strongest offerings. Trained at Jehan Numa's flagship property in Bhopal, the chefs serve a menu spanning Indian, Pan-Asian, European and Italian cuisines. Dishes such as Kung Pao Chicken, Udon Noodles, Edamame Fried Rice, Paneer Kofta, Chicken Biryani, Poha, South Indian Dosas, Mushroom Risotto and Chicken Rezala all showcase the kitchen's versatility.

Rashid Family Fried Eggs, Bori Egg Benedict, South Indian Dosa and Chicken Biryani

The real winner for me, however, was breakfast. The expansive egg menu includes signatures such as the Rashid Family Fried Eggs, Bori Egg Benedict and The Full Monty. My personal favourite, though, was the baked yoghurt served with muesli — a dish I found myself ordering repeatedly throughout the stay.

Mahua Martini, Culinary Cook Along and Dining Space

The beverage programme is equally impressive. Standout cocktails include the Espresso Martini, Mahua Martini, Smokey Gond Elf — a tequila-based cocktail finished with smoke — and the Mahua Mirage. Beer, wine and a selection of spirits are also available. During the monsoon, however, I found myself particularly enjoying the refreshing aam panna and mango smoothie.

Final Thoughts

While the experience was undoubtedly memorable, it also pushed me well beyond my comfort zone — not because of the lodge itself, but because of my personal preferences. I am not someone who particularly enjoys being completely disconnected from my phone, and the sight of lizards and snakes still sends chills down my spine. Yet that discomfort is also what made the experience so unique. Was it thrilling? Absolutely. Would I do it again? That remains a question I still don't have an answer to.

*A Note To Readers: Word of Caution and Things To Know Before You Book

1. There is no Airtel connectivity at the property, although Jio and Vodafone users may receive limited network coverage.

2. Internet access is restricted, with Wi-Fi available only in the reception area, and mobile data services remain unreliable throughout the property.

3. The lodge does not have intercom systems or room service, and instead, guests use a bhopu (handheld horn) to call for staff assistance.

4. Wildlife is very much part of the experience — snakes, monkeys, lizards, frogs and birds move freely around the property. Bugs are also a natural part of life in the jungle, particularly during the evenings and monsoon season.

5. In keeping with its commitment to an authentic wilderness experience, there are no televisions in the rooms.

6. Electricity can be intermittent, with backup power taking a few minutes to activate.

7. Guests staying in Rooms 5 & 6 and 11 & 12 should note that these are located furthest from the central facilities and can feel particularly secluded after dark. Staff movement in these areas is limited, and assistance may not always be immediate.

8. If you are uncomfortable with insects, reptiles, limited connectivity, rustic conditions or the absence of room service and modern conveniences, this may not be the ideal getaway for you. However, if you are seeking an immersive wilderness experience, Bori offers exactly that.

9. For those who prefer easier access to the reception, dining and library areas, Rooms 1 & 2 are the most conveniently located.